What we cook.
Recipes built on technique. The reduction matters. The mise en place matters. The order you add the salt matters.
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Crispy mushroom, creamy heat.Spicy Garlic Ramen
A 20-minute spicy garlic ramen: a creamy soy-milk chili broth and king oyster mushrooms forked into strands and oven-crisped until they pull like meat.
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Cheek by jowl.Amatriciana
The Roman bucatini — tomato, pecorino, black pepper — with smoked king oyster mushroom rendered crisp in place of the guanciale. The dish, exactly the dish.
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Crisp that survives the broth.Agedashi Tofu
Deep-fried tofu in dashi, two ways: silken tofu in a potato-starch crust that survives the broth, a kombu-shiitake dashi, grated daikon and ginger to finish.
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White gazpacho, before the tomato.Ajoblanco
Málaga's cold almond-and-garlic soup, two ways: marcona almonds and soaked bread emulsified with garlic, water and oil, chilled, moscatel grapes on top.
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The ribbon.Aligot
The stretchy Aubrac potato purée, two ways: riced potato beaten with a cashew-miso curd until it pulls in long ribbons, with the famous fil you lift on a spoon.
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No water, all flavour.Aloo Gobi
Punjabi dry aloo gobi: potato and cauliflower dry-roasted till browned and tender, not stewed, with turmeric, cumin, ginger, and an amchur finish.
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Little oranges, fried gold.Arancini
Sicilian fried rice balls, two ways: saffron rice around a mushroom-pea ragù, breaded and fried to a crackling shell that gives way to a molten, savoury centre.
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Crust like a drumhead.Arepas
Masarepa corn cakes griddled then baked to a crackling shell and a steamy crumb, split and stuffed with a creamy avocado-and-heart-of-palm reina pepiada.
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The colony, eaten.Bánh mì
Vietnam's baguette sandwich, two ways: an airy rice-flour-lightened roll, lemongrass tofu, mushroom pâté, đồ chua pickle, cilantro, chili, and Maggi.
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Mix it all together.Bibimbap
A Korean rice bowl built on disciplined namul vegetables, a crackling dolsot rice crust, a gochujang sauce, and crisp seared tofu where the egg usually sits.
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Sealed, steamed, never stirred.Vegetable Dum Biryani
Layered dum biryani done properly: aged basmati par-boiled and sealed over a saffron-scented vegetable korma, fried birista, steamed under its own breath.
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The braise that fears brown.Blanquette
The ivory braise, two ways: celeriac and king oyster poached in a white velouté, finished with a lemon-and-cream liaison that must never see brown.
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The thing that is stirred.Brandade
Nîmes' stirred emulsion, two ways: white beans and hearts of palm whipped with warm olive oil, kombu and nori for the sea, on grilled toast.
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Baked in oil, never stewed.Briam
Greek summer vegetables baked slowly in olive oil, two ways: thin-sliced potato, courgette and tomato confited low until the oil and juices become one sauce.
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Cheese and pepper, rebuilt.Cacio e pepe
The Roman pasta, two ways: tonnarelli mantecato in a starch-and-savory-cream emulsion standing in for pecorino, with black pepper toasted whole and cracked coarse.
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The agrodolce, on a knife-edge.Caponata
Sicilian sweet-and-sour eggplant, two ways: fried aubergine, celery, capers, olives, balanced on a knife-edge of vinegar and sugar. Served cold.
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No cream. It never had cream..Carbonara
The Roman dish, two ways: a silken-tofu and chickpea-flour custard for the egg emulsion, smoked-tofu guanciale, pecorino-cashew. No cream, ever.
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Fifteen minutes, not hours.Ceviche
Hearts-of-palm and king oyster ceviche in a sharp leche de tigre of lime, ají, ginger and garlic, with red onion, cilantro, sweet potato and toasted corn.
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Dark, sour, and built by browning.Chana Masala
Punjabi chickpea curry, Pindi style: a dark bhuna onion-tomato masala, soured with anardana and amchur, darkened with black tea to a deep mahogany.
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The bread that balloons.Chole Bhature
Punjabi tea-darkened chickpeas under a fried yogurt-leavened bhatura that balloons in the oil. The Delhi breakfast plate, two ways, no animal anywhere.
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Leave the stones in.Clafoutis
The Limousin cherry clafoutis, two ways: a silky chickpea-flour custard baked over whole cherries at home, and a plated clafoutis with cherry sauce at the bistro.
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Set on the stove, not baked.Crema catalana
Catalonia's citrus-and-cinnamon custard, two ways: oat milk infused with lemon, orange and cinnamon, set with cornstarch, burnt to a glass crack on top.
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Orange, caramel, fire.Crêpes Suzette
The flambéed orange-caramel crêpes, two ways: a beurre Suzette and folded crêpes at home, and a tableside-flamed plated dessert with candied zest at the bistro.
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The crunchy mister.Croque-monsieur
The Parisian café sandwich, two ways: cashew mornay and smoked tofu ham on buttered pain de mie, gratinéed until the top blisters and the corners crunch.
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Cold sets the secret.Croquetas
Spanish croquettes, two ways: a thick mushroom-and-jamón béchamel chilled until sliceable, shaped, double-breaded, and fried to a shattering golden shell.
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Yesterday's curry, today's bowl.Curry udon
Curry-dashi udon, two ways: leftover Japanese curry loosened with mushroom dashi, brought back to a silky coat with a starch slurry, over thick chewy udon.
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The dal is the canvas; the tadka is the brush.Dal Tadka
Soft yellow toor dal finished with a tadka — whole spices bloomed in hot ghee until the fat itself turns gold, cumin and garlic and chilli crackling.
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Provence's sealed pot.Daube provençale
The Provençal red-wine braise, two ways: seitan and mushroom slow-cooked in wine, orange zest and olives, the daubière sealed and left to go deep and dark.
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Rolled tight, simmered under a plate.Dolmades
Greek stuffed vine leaves, two ways: a rice, herb and pine-nut filling rolled tight, simmered packed under olive oil and lemon, served cool with more lemon.
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Read the crimp.Empanadas
Argentine baked hand pies with a knife-cut mushroom-lentil picadillo, cumin and pimentón, olive and a brined-caper bind, sealed with the repulgue crimp.
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Cooked in the embers.Escalivada
Catalan fire-roasted vegetables, two ways: peppers, aubergine and onion charred black in embers, peeled warm, dressed in their own smoky juices and good oil.
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Volcanic-soil pea, silk purée.Fava Santorini
Santorini-style yellow split pea purée, two ways: a silky olive-oil mash, raw onion and capers on top, lemon to cut it, warm bread to scoop.
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The black-bean Saturday.Feijoada
Brazil's black-bean feast, two ways: smoked tofu, charred mushrooms and seitan deep in a dark bean pot, served with orange, couve and farofa.
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Noodles, not rice.Fideuà
Gandia's noodle paella, two ways: toasted fideos in a smoked sofrito and mushroom-kombu fumet, cooked dry to a crackling socarrat, finished with allioli.
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The flame cake.Flammekueche
Alsace's tarte flambée, two ways: cashew fromage blanc, raw onion, smoked-tofu lardons on paper-thin no-yeast dough, baked blistering-hot until the edges char.
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Brine in the dimples, cloud in the crumb.Focaccia
Ligurian focaccia, two ways: a high-hydration dough dimpled under a salt brine, baked golden and oil-glossed, soft as a cloud with a crisp, lacquered base.
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The milk börek.Galaktoboureko
Greek milk pie, two ways: a slow semolina custard set without egg, wrapped in buttered phyllo, baked gold, then drowned in cold citrus syrup for the crackle.
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The soup a spoon stands up in.Garbure
The Gascon cabbage-and-bean soup, two ways: smoky confit mushrooms and white beans cooked thick enough to stand a spoon in, finished with the chabrot pour.
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Cooked in oil, the old way.Gemista
Greek rice-stuffed tomatoes and peppers baked in olive oil, two ways: herb-heavy filling, scooped-flesh sauce, potatoes wedged between to catch the juices.
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Burgundy's cellar puff.Gougères
Burgundian cheese puffs, two ways: airy choux raised on steam alone, a cashew-miso-yeast cheese that carries the Comté savour, baked dark and hollow.
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Big beans, slow oven.Gigantes plaki
Greek giant baked butter beans in tomato, two ways: beans salted late so the skins stay whole, a deep oven-roasted sauce, dill and lemon at the end.
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The herdsman's red soup.Goulash
Hungarian gulyás, two ways: a paprika-rich herdsman's soup of seared mushrooms and seitan, soft potatoes and onion, brothy and deep red, never floured.
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No cheese. It never had any..Gratin dauphinois
The real Dauphiné gratin, two ways: thin raw potatoes baked slow in garlicky cashew-oat cream, no cheese, until the top bronzes and the inside turns to silk.
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Stone, not steel.Guacamole
Avocado mashed coarse in a basalt molcajete with chile, onion, coriander and lime — the Aztec āhuacamōlli, texture and acid doing the work, no machine.
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The crispy skirt.Gyoza
Japanese pan-fried dumplings, two ways: a salted-and-wrung cabbage, mushroom and tofu filling, pleated, then crisped into a lacy hanetsuki skirt in the pan.
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No lettuce. Ever..Horiatiki
The real Greek village salad, two ways: no lettuce, ripe tomato in wedges, cucumber, onion, olives and a slab of marinated almond curd, dried oregano, good oil.
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Baked, not boiled — start to finish.Gnocchi alla sorrentina
Sorrento-style baked gnocchi, two ways: pillowy riced-potato gnocchi in a quick tomato sauce with a fior di latte analog, baked in a dish until bubbling and golden.
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The Western dish Japan kept.Curry japonais
Kare raisu, two ways: a dark roux brick made from scratch, onions cooked low to sweet, apple and a square of chocolate for body, over short-grain rice.
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The celebration noodle.Japchae
Korean sweet-potato glass noodles tossed with separately cooked vegetables and shiitake in a sesame-soy glaze — chewy, glossy, savory-sweet, for sharing.
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Tang-fried, the dry way.Karaage
Japanese fried karaage, two ways: cauliflower and king oyster in a soy-ginger-garlic marinade, a katakuriko potato-starch crust, double-fried crisp.
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Coconut, chili, rempah.Laksa
Peranakan curry laksa: a toasted rempah loosened with coconut milk, tofu puffs that drink the broth, rice noodles, bean sprouts and a lime-and-chili lift.
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Green pasta, slow ragù, real besciamella.Lasagne alla Bolognese
Bologna's layered ragù lasagne, two ways: a slow lentil-and-mushroom ragù, silky besciamella, and green spinach pasta verde, baked until the edges crack.
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The lentil that holds its shape.Lentilles du Puy
Green Puy lentils braised with mirepoix the Lyonnais way, two readings: a quick weeknight pot, and a plated lentil with smoked-tofu lardons and a sharp jus.
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The sauce a leftover built.Makhani
The buttery Moti Mahal tomato gravy over charred cauliflower and tofu — a silky emulsion of tomato, vegan butter and cashew, finished with kasoori methi.
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Numbing, hot, rust-red.Mapo Tofu
Silken tofu in a rust-red doubanjiang sauce with a shiitake-walnut crumble, finished with toasted-and-ground Sichuan pepper for the full má-là buzz.
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The crepe that ferments itself.Masala Dosa
A fermented rice-and-urad-dal crepe spread crisp and lacy, wrapped around soft turmeric potato masala, with coconut chutney and a quick sambar.
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The curry the spice road left behind.Massaman Curry
Thailand's Persian-rooted curry, two ways: warm dry spices toasted into a paste, coconut milk, potatoes and peanuts, with jackfruit and tofu where the meat once was.
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The big soup, whatever the week left.Minestrone
Italy's big seasonal soup, two ways: a slow soffritto base, beans, whatever the market gave you, short pasta, and a Parmesan-rind-deep umami broth.
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Thirty ingredients, one sauce.Mole Poblano
Puebla's great mole: ancho, mulato, pasilla and chipotle toasted and ground with seeds, nuts, spice, fruit and a backbone of dark chocolate, over roasted mushrooms.
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Born in the snow.Miso Ramen
Sapporo's own ramen, two ways: a wok of fried ginger-garlic aromatics, a miso tare bloomed in fat, a rich mushroom broth, wavy noodles, corn and butter on top.
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Yesterday's rice, today's dinner.Nasi Goreng
Indonesia's fried rice, two ways: cold day-old rice seared hard over a sambal-and-miso base, lacquered with sweet kecap manis, crowned with a crisp-edged fried egg.
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The navy's homesick stew.Nikujaga
Japan's meat-and-potatoes simmer, two ways: waxy potatoes and onions cooked under a drop-lid in a dashi-soy-mirin-sugar wari-shita, with king oyster and seitan.
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Grill it as you like.Okonomiyaki
Osaka's as-you-like savoury cabbage pancake, two ways: dashi batter bound with grated nagaimo yam, okonomi sauce, aonori, a snow of bonito-style flakes.
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In bianco, the old way.Osso buco
Milan's braised shank, two ways: king oyster 'shanks' braised in bianco with white wine and brodo, a marrow center, sharp gremolata, over saffron risotto.
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A noodle by decree.Pad thai
Thailand's national stir-fry, two ways: soaked rice noodles, a tamarind-palm sugar-soy sauce, tofu two ways, garlic chives, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, lime.
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Green, not khaki — that is the whole game.Palak Paneer
Bright-green spinach curry with golden tofu standing in for paneer — spinach blanched and shocked so it stays electric green, finished with cashew cream.
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Bread saved by tomatoes.Panzanella
Tuscany's bread-and-tomato salad, two ways: stale bread soaked and squeezed, ripe tomatoes, red onion, basil and good vinegar — thrift married to ripeness.
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Not from Parma. It never was..Parmigiana di melanzane
Eggplant parmigiana, two ways: salted and fried aubergine layered with tomato, basil, and cashew parmesan, baked until it sets into slices you can cut.
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Named for an opera. Fried, never roasted..Pasta alla norma
Catania's eggplant pasta, two ways: fried aubergine folded through a bright tomato sauce over rigatoni, finished with torn basil and salty grated ricotta salata.
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Pasta and beans, the Naples way.Pasta e fagioli
Naples' pasta and beans, two ways: half-puréed beans for a creamy base, broken mixed pasta cooked in, garlic, rosemary and good oil — cucina povera.
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The tubes stand up.Pastitsio
Greek baked pasta, two ways: long tubes standing up, a cinnamon-clove lentil-mushroom ragù, and a thick béchamel that sets into clean slices without egg.
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Brava means fierce.Patatas bravas
Madrid's bar potatoes, two ways: twice-cooked crisp cubes under a real pimentón salsa brava — paprika, never ketchup — and a garlic-bright alioli.
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The bowl is the broth.Phở
Vietnam's clear aromatic noodle soup, two ways: a charred-onion-and-ginger broth bodied with kombu and shiitake, toasted spice, rice noodles, herbs.
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The onion tart Nice never calls pizza.Pissaladière
Nice's onion tart, two ways: long-cooked golden onions, a caper-olive-nori pissalat, black olives and thyme on a thin crisp base — and not a pizza.
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Grated, never sliced.Pan con tomate
Catalan pa amb tomàquet, two ways: grilled bread rubbed with garlic and ripe grated tomato, never sliced, drowned in good olive oil and flaky salt.
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Cook each one alone.Pisto
La Mancha's tomato-and-pepper stew, two ways: each vegetable cooked apart and folded together, jammy and slow, finished the old way under a soft-set egg.
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The corn that flowers.Pozole Rojo
Pozole rojo: nixtamalized hominy simmered until it flowers, in a guajillo-ancho broth with mushrooms, finished at a radish, cabbage and lime garnish bar.
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The pot in the fire.Pot-au-feu
France's pot-in-the-fire, two ways: a trembling kombu-shiitake bouillon, staggered winter vegetables, seared king oyster bouilli, white-bean marrow toast.
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Migaine, lardons, no cheese.Quiche lorraine
The real Lorraine tart, two ways: smoked-tofu lardons in a silken-and-chickpea migaine, set just-trembling in a butter pâte brisée. No cheese, the old way.
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Cooked until the sauce becomes oil.Rendang
The Minangkabau dry coconut braise, two ways: jackfruit and king oyster cooked for hours through gulai and kalio until the coconut milk reduces to dark oil.
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The reboiled soup — better tomorrow.Ribollita
Tuscany's reboiled bread soup, two ways: cannellini beans, cavolo nero, soffritto and day-old bread cooked to a thick, spoon-standing meal — better on day two.
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All'onda — it has to move.Risotto ai funghi
Mushroom risotto, two ways: toasted Carnaroli loosened with porcini-soaking broth, beaten to a wave with vegan butter and cashew parmesan, deep and savoury.
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Ñora, not bell pepper.Romesco
Tarragona's ñora-and-almond sauce, two ways: dried ñora peppers, charred tomato, fried bread and toasted nuts pounded into the rust-red sauce of the calçotada.
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No boiled potato. Nice insists..Salade niçoise
The real Niçoise, two ways: thrice-salted raw tomatoes, white beans, olives, and a seared watermelon 'tuna' — no boiled potato, no cooked vegetable.
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Thicker than gazpacho.Salmorejo
Córdoba's thick cold tomato-and-bread cream, two ways: a glossy emulsion of tomato, bread and olive oil, finished with black-salt tofu and smoky jamón crumbs.
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The pastry that crossed Asia.Samosa
Punjabi potato-and-pea samosas: a flaky ajwain maida pastry, fried low then high for a blister-free crust, around a cumin-spiced filling with whole coriander.
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Under the forked crust.Shepherd's Pie
The British comfort classic, two ways: a deep lentil-and-mushroom braise under a forked, crisp-ridged mashed potato crust browned hard at the top.
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Soy, the old way.Shoyu Ramen
Tokyo-style soy ramen, two ways: a clear kombu-shiitake-roasted-vegetable chintan broth, a layered shoyu tare, alkaline noodles, restraint in the bowl.
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Chickpea flour, fire, salt.Socca
Nice's chickpea-flour pancake, two ways: a blistered, smoky home version baked screaming-hot, and a plated socca with toppings, cut like a tart at the bistro.
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The rise that fears the door.Soufflé au fromage
The cheese soufflé, two ways: a savoury chickpea-and-cashew base lifted on whipped aquafaba, baked tall in a buttered dish with the oven door kept shut.
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Summer, pounded.Soupe au pistou
The Provençal summer soup, two ways: white and green beans, courgette and tomato in a thin broth, finished off the heat with a pounded basil-garlic pistou.
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The sea, the garlic, the gloss.Spaghetti alle Vongole
Naples' clam spaghetti, two ways: king oyster 'clams', a kombu-and-dulse sea broth for the briny note, garlic, chilli and parsley, emulsified with pasta water.
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The spinning top, reimagined.Tacos al Pastor
King oyster al pastor: chiles guajillo and achiote adobo, charred trompo-style edges, pineapple, warm corn tortillas, onion, cilantro, lime.
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Upside down, on purpose.Tarte Tatin
The upside-down apple tart, two ways: apples cooked dark in vegan butter caramel under a lid of puff, baked, then flipped to a lacquered amber dome.
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Cold, lumpy, gossamer.Tempura
Lacy vegetable tempura, two ways: an ice-cold under-mixed low-gluten batter that fries gossamer-light, classic vegetables, a kombu-shiitake tentsuyu to dip.
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Pick me up — Treviso's coffee cloud.Tiramisu
Treviso's coffee dessert, two ways: a whipped cashew-and-silken mascarpone set with aquafaba, espresso-soaked savoiardi, dusted bitter cocoa. No-bake, no egg.
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Sweet-green, not mild.Curry vert thaï
Thailand's green curry, two ways: a pounded green-chile paste, coconut cream cracked until the oil splits, eggplant and tofu, Thai basil and makrut lime.
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The pie that starts with squeezing.Spanakopita
Greek spinach and herb pie, two ways: brittle olive-oil phyllo, spinach squeezed bone-dry, a tofu-and-cashew curd that breaks like feta.
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Sour from lime, never from vinegar.Tom Yum
Thailand's hot-and-sour soup, two ways: a clear broth on lemongrass, galangal and makrut lime, with mushrooms and a sourness from lime, not vinegar.
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Poco hecha, always.Tortilla española
Spain's potato omelette, two ways: confited potatoes folded into a black-salt chickpea custard, set barely — the runny poco hecha middle intact.
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The pot you never empty.Yakitori
Sapporo skewers, two ways: king oyster planks grilled hard over fire, lacquered in a tare you build over weeks, alternated with charred scallion the negima way.
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Churn of events.Vegan Butter
Cultured plant butter from coconut oil and cocoa butter — the French method. It spreads cold, browns in the pan, and tastes of buttermilk, not coconut.
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From AshlandAin't Got No Beef Smash Burger
A smash burger built on a TVP patty with a real lacquered crust, served with hand-cut double-fried fries and a sharp special sauce.
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From TunisBaba Ganoush
Charred eggplant, tahini, garlic, lemon. The smoke is the whole dish — char the eggplants over open flame, not in the oven.
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From AlexandriaFalafel
Crispy fava-and-chickpea falafel, the Egyptian-Levantine combination Alexandria has been cooking for 1,600 years. Coriander-forward, parsley-bright.
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Some like it cold.Gazpacho
The Andalusian cold soup that breaks every northern rule — raw bread, ripe tomato, olive oil emulsified by hand. Summer in a glass.
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From BeirutHummus
The Levantine standard — dried chickpeas slow-cooked with baking soda, ice cubes in the blender, fresh-pressed lemon, real tahini. The texture is the dish.
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From BeirutTabbouleh
The Levantine herb-and-bulgur salad — fine bulgur, mountains of parsley and mint, almost no grain. The proportion is the point.
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Nothing to sea.Puttanesca
The Naples late-night pasta — tomato, capers, olives, garlic, chile — with nori and white miso replacing the anchovies. The dish, with the sea kept in.
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From NaplesAglio e Olio
Four ingredients. Twenty minutes. The Naples pasta that ends every long-night argument about whether you need anything more than garlic, oil, and salt.
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From LondonWellington Forestière
A Wellington built on a king oyster mushroom log, a deeply savory duxelles, and buttery puff pastry that shatters when cut. Forestière, the Escoffier way.
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From DijonBourguignon
King oyster mushrooms slow-braised in a heavy red Burgundy, with pearl onions and the kind of glossy reduction that doesn't miss what isn't in the pan.
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Grate expectations.Parmesan
Three ingredients, five minutes — toasted cashews, nutritional yeast, salt. Grates over pasta the way the real one does, with the umami the real one wishes it had.
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From MarseilleBouillabaisse
A Marseille bouillabaisse rebuilt around dulse, kombu, and fennel — saffron-perfumed, finished with rouille and grilled bread, the proper two-course way.
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Cheeky chickpea.Milanesa
Crispy breaded cutlets, Argentine style — chickpeas inside, panko crust, mustard-caper aioli, and the lemon wedge that doesn't negotiate.
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From DijonSous-Bois au Vin
King oyster mushrooms and seitan slow-braised in red Burgundy with pearl onions and the kind of reduction this Dijon dish has always lived on.
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From CastelnaudaryCassoulet
A Languedoc cassoulet of white beans, smoked seitan sausage, and a slow-built confit of mushrooms, baked under a crust of toasted breadcrumbs and patience.
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Soup there it is.French Onion Soup
Six onions, forty-five minutes of patience, a miso-darkened broth that earns the gruyère it doesn't need. A Lyon bistro soup, the slow way.
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From ValenciaPaella
A Valencian paella built on what matters — short-grain rice, real saffron, the socarrat at the bottom — with artichokes and white beans instead of seafood.
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Pesto, presto.Pesto Pasta
Pesto pasta the Ligurian way — basil-and-pine-nut paste folded with toasted cashews and nutritional yeast at the plate, never in the mortar. Edda's rule.
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From NiceRatatouille
A Provençal ratatouille the proper way — vegetables cooked separately, layered at the end, finished with fresh basil and good olive oil. Not the Pixar version.
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Risotto, risk it.Risotto allo Zafferano
A saffron risotto in the Milanese tradition — toasted rice, a slow ladle of stock, and the gold that comes from saffron threads bloomed properly.
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Aubergine dream machine.Moussaka
A Greek moussaka of eggplant, lentils, and cinnamon, with a béchamel that knows it doesn't need cheese. Built the way Athens built it.
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Hail seitan.Chorizo
Smoked paprika, toasted fennel, a 24-hour fridge cure. The Spanish chorizo that holds its bite and pan-fries crisp — built on seitan.
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Bowl meets world.Kinoko Ramen
An eight-hour mushroom-and-kombu broth, coal-blackened onion, soy-tare, alkaline noodles, and the lessons Tetsu's broth taught me in Sapporo.