Drafts I am refusing to publish until the prose matches what the kitchen
actually felt like. Some of these will take months. They get there when
they get there. No promised dates.
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From Lyon, Presqu’île
A bouchon, a man named Pascal, and the soupe à l’oignon that taught me patience
Visited —
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From Camogli, Liguria
A wooden spoon, a marble mortar, the cheese on the plate not in the paste
Visited —
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From Sapporo, Hokkaido
A basement counter, a ramen master, and the discipline of refusing the shortcut
Visited —
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From Tunis, La Marsa
A sidewalk burner, a Tunisian grandmother, brik at 2 a.m. without a shared word
Visited —
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From Mexico City, Roma Norte
A taquería corner, a Spanish teacher, and what chile is actually for
Visited —
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From Athens, Plaka
A taverna, Eleni, lentils, and the salt of the bread
Visited 2017
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From Valencia, El Cabanyal
Joan’s paella and the rule of the socarrat
Visited 2018
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From Buenos Aires, San Telmo
The bodegón that taught me the milanesa
Visited 2019
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From Languedoc, A small estate kitchen
Madeleine, the bean lady, the cassoulet crust
Visited 2022
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From London, Mayfair
The Wellington and the duxelles obsession
Visited 2023